Pearls come in many shapes and sizes whether they are real or not, and it’s not always easy to tell the difference between the genuine article or a fake. Even amongst genuine pearls there are many different classes of both natural and cultured varieties, all with their own different properties and all valued very differently as pearl jewellery. You don’t want to be fooled when buying pearls, so here are a few ways to help differentiate between real pearls, whether they are natural or cultured, and fakes
The Tooth Test
Many people say that by rubbing a pearl against your teeth the texture of the surface will tell you whether or not it is genuine. Real pearls normally have a more rough, irregular texture whereas fakes are glassy and perfectly smooth. This isn’t really the most reliable method of testing, as fakes are often made to appear completely genuine and some real pearls can sometimes be smooth, particularly if the surface has been dyed.
The Sun Test
A slightly more reliable method is to take the pearls out in the sun and look closely at the lustre, or iridescence, on their surface. Apart from extremely unusual and rare specimens, real pearls hardly ever appear perfectly matched in full daylight and have clear differences in shine, iridescence and colour.
Surface Magnification
Don’t underestimate the power of a magnifying glass – a closeup look at the pearl earrings, necklace or brooch can tell you a lot, and is one of the most effective ways of distinguishing between genuine and fake pearls. Genuine pearls are covered in tiny, almost indistinguishable lines, making it look almost scaly under magnification. It also helps to look closely at the drill holes in the pearl, which are normally as small as possible in a real pearl as the gems are valued by their weight. The holes are usually drilled from both ends and meet in the middle, so the hole is much smaller in the middle of the pearl.
Shape
One of the most obvious ways to identify real pearl sets is to look closely at the shape of each pearl and whether or not they are close to being identical – real pearls are hardly ever perfectly round, and it is almost unheard of to find a whole string of pearls of exactly the same size, shape and weight. Real pearls that are regular in this way are extremely expensive, and if not they are probably fake.
X-Ray
The best way to be absolutely positive of a pearl’s authenticiety is to have it verified and certified by a qualified gemologist. For a fee they will be able to x-ray the pearls, allowing you to see inside to any imperfections or variations in density and identifying the nucleus to determine how the pearl was originally formed. You need to be pretty certain that the pearl is real before paying the price for a validation, but many imitation pearls look very real and it’s the only way to really be 100% sure without damaging the pearl.
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